Thursday 14 April 2016

Soulful Wanderings

2015 has been an incredibly tough year with a lot of personal upheaval and positive soul searching, however, something was still needed... The seaside... My happy place where my mind rests and my soul takes control, The seaside is on thing, but I decided to do a road trip from Cape Town to George...I've drive to Durban once, so I am not a long distance driver...tick, great idea! My journey started with my alarm ringing me to consciousness at 4am...and my brain thinking 'why on earth are you up so early during the holidays?' Oh yes, I had decided to take the red eye Sunday flight, so that I could get my beach on as soon as possible. Needless to say I slept the entire flight to Cape Town, only to wake up startled by a queue of women in the aisle next to me. My initial reaction was OMG nobody told me to put my life vest on! Once I came too I was relieved to realise that that it was the all too common situation of a line to the ladies bathroom. Touch down in Cape Town and was pleasantly greeted by a warm breeze and stunning blue skies. Off to Airbnb in Greenpoint we go where we were greeted by Grant who just smiled constantly for the entire 20min he was showing us around.He also surprised us with a bottle of red wine and Ferrero Roche on our pillows. Ps. The last Airbnb I stayed at in CT I had to buy my own dishwashing liquid and toilet paper...not even enough for 1 day...I mean that's taking self-catering to a whole new level. I digress...we headed off to camps Bay beash as I desperately needed to get my tan on...translucent is a sign of a hard working woman I say ;)...lunch at Grand Cafe overlooking the beach with a bottle (ok 2 bottles) of Gorgeous Pinot Noir, now this is how you start a holiday. Food and wine in bellies, off to the beach we go...probably not the wisest move to eat before de-robing into a skimpy bikini LOL! Divine day tanning and swimming, well it's Camps Bay so you run in with as much class as you can muster, dunk yourself in the first wave and then get out before hypothermia sets in.Have to say it help to remove the wine haze though.
Back home to the flat to indulge in our red wine...a few sips in and my boyfriend decides it's time for another DMC...rule 1 of my seaside break was No DMC's...ended in disaster (weeks culminating in 1 episode) and I dropped him at the airport to fly back to JHB. Did I act hastily, perhaps, but that was my rule and we were only on Day 1. My 2-man wanderings became a 1-man wolfpack before I could even blink.
After tears shed and waking up feeling crap, I headed back down to Camps Bay for some r&r (small letters as R&R stands for my favourite red wine Rupert&Rothchild...oh and Rum&Rasberry from Mozambique...stories for another day). A delicious chicken and brie sandwich at La Belle was the perfect solution...over the Cape Times too, what could I do it was on the table. Feeling revived I headed back down to the beach to seal in my day 1 tan. So tanning on the beach alone over the Festive season s not ideal but this is what I was searching for...and for goodness sake I'm an only child so suck it up Princess. Ended another gorgeous day on the beach with dinner at Willoughbies in the V&A Waterfront with my Jozi friends, Matt and Lelanie. Shame they were victims of food poisoning the day before so were a little worse for wear but we had a lovely catch up nonetheless. After today I realised again that I really need to live at the coast.
Woke up early on day 3 to head off to Swellendam...alone...oh crap here we go. I put fuel in and jump out to get breakfast, at the only petrol station that doesn't have a decent shop...eek crisps for breakfast it was. I'm fighting grumpy as I head out of CT, albeit in the completely wrong direction in my mind, so ym trust was put in my GPS as a sense of direction is not my strong point. Thank goodness for Waze as I am heading through the beautiful winelands of Somerset West, however that was short lived as I hit the Free State...oh wait no I am still in the Cape, wow the brown fields seemed to go on for days #beautifulbutbored. As I start to think that I'm drifting off I spot a pair of Blue Cranes, our national bird in it's natural habitat, spectacular. Excited I muster on, but then boredom kicks in again (I am like a child in the car), then i spot a Secretary bird, another fantastic site. Swellendam is the cutest town...I'd die a slow death living here...but gorgeous! I grabbed a burger-without-a-bun lunch in an attempt to stay healthy but I still had a glass of wine, then headed off to the much-talked-about Swellendam church. I was rather disappointed, don't get me wrong it was lovely but I suppose I have seen some of the most beautiful churches around the world so perhaps my expectations were too high.
I checked in at Swellendam Backpackers, and was greeted by 2 beautiful Greyhounds. A simple room but I had my own en-suite so that trumps shared ablutions any day, and for R450 per room/night it was great value for money. I did however realise very quickly how out of place my JHB look was in a backpackers lodge...even though I am not your typical Sandtonite.
I found myself craving beach time so I Googled the nearest beaches, and Arniston came up, an hour away...it's the sea so it's worth it. As I drew nearer I started to dread that it was not a tourist beach, however, I was pleasantly surprised as I pulled up to the pearl blue seas and a quiet haven of a town. I wasted no time in heading down to the sand, and later into the sea...what it was warm?! I'm in love, blue water-the-Cape-warm temp-goldmine!
After a stunning afternoon, I spent my evening at a restaurant in Swellendam called Fire@10 who, as the name suggests, welcome guests with a blazing bonfire outside. A beautiful evening it was however no alcohol is served on the outside tables so I was banished to an inside table...I couldn't have a meal without wine after all. I tucked into a starter of game carpaccio...given the area I'm guessing it was Ostrich...over the entertaining mutterings of an elderly couple and their gay companions, she was just as upset about the inside drinking arrangements. I ended my meal with a tender rump steak and paid my bill alongside the drunk ramblings of an Afrikaaner teaching a foreigner an African handshake...the irony. My plan for a lie-in was thwarted by the sounds of backpackers showering and cooking food at 6:30am. I got myself ready and decided my roadtrip could wait as I had discovered a stunning breakfast location at La Belle restaurant. I pulled up a table overlooking the river bank and indulged in the most delicious salmon and scrambled eggs breakfast - definitely beat my Balsamic crisps from the previous day! Fantastic service, fod, and location - a definite must-visit!
Refueled and ready to go I hit the N2 towards Oudtshoorn...and wow what awaited I could never have expected! To say that the Tradouw pass is majestic is an understatement, I was blown away by the sheer magnitude and untouched beauty of it all! I stopped at every possible layby to take in the sheer majesty of what this country has to offer...we are truly blessed to be South African! Not only the natural beauty but the beauty of our people, while taking a photo of the view a lone-biker drive up the pass and waved fro my photo, moments like that make my day! Not long after I stopped again and looked over a sparkling pool of water that just looked so inviting to swim in, as I drove on, 2 guys had stopped and were walking in the direction of the river, cooler box in hand...all too late did I realise that they were going for a swim in that very pool...I wish I had had an opportunity to turn around to join them as that would have been an unforgettable experience.
As I reflected on my lack of spontaneity I suddenly saw the sign for Ronnie's Sex Shop, a Route62 icon not to be missed! My spirits lifted as I turned into the dusty parking lot surrounded by travelling bikers. The place lived up to expectations with all sorts of memorabilia covering every square inch of the bar, from business cards, writing on the walls, caps, and underwear of every description. I chilled at the bar admiring the unconventional artwork while savouring an ice cold Savannah. I added my business card to the wall...far too many patrons in there at the time for me to consider an underwear contribution :)
Feeling rejuvenated it was onward to Outdshoorn, which was an odd bustling town, which to be honest, I had no urge to stop in, nor ride an Ostrich for that matter as it was 40 degrees! My accommodation was about 20km outside of Oudtshoorn, on to a dirt road...a sudden wave of concern passed over me, where had I booked? 5km's down the sand road I found the sign to Camilla's cottage (Airbnb) and veered off onto a rocky little road...relieved I was in a rental car. I drove up to the cottage hidden away amongst the trees and was greeted by camilla herself, who spoke in the most beautiful English, and her muddy pups who had just gone for a swim (where they swam I never figured out 'cause I wouldn't have minded being a warthog for a few minutes in that heat). The surroundings were pure Karoo bush, far removed from my seaside adventure, yet somehow I felt completely at peace...and a few kilos lighter from the perspiration.
As there were no restaurants nearby I made a trip to the OK bazaars in De Rust...quaint is giving this little town too much credit. After much deliberation...and longing for Woolworths...I settled on frozen fish and veggies for dinner...oh and wine of course. I headed out of town and stopped at the Pink Lady farmers stall...what a breath of of fresh air! Amazing local produce and wines, so I opted for a home made pie, local Skaam Skaap wine and lemon olives. Funny story the owner told me was that the Skaam Skaap wine is a dry Pinot Noir, however, one year they harvested the grapes too late and the Pinot Noir turned out sweet, so they named it Laat Lammerjtie...brilliant!
Back to my little sanctuary to an evening spent cooking up my OK feast, reading my book and just being still...a novelty in our fast-paced lives! Early evening I was blessed with a thunderstorm which dissipated the unbearable heat of the afternoon, I was so excited...and a little tipsy...that I danced in the rain! What a liberating moment and so good to find that inner child again. After the storm passed the most unbelievable African sunset appeared as I sat surrounded by the bush sipping on red wine.
Early to bed and early to rise as the heat streamed through the open doors. Relaxed morning spent on the verandah and then back on the road for my final destination, Wilderness. A short hour and a half drive through the breathtaking Outeniqua pass and down into George, a hive of activity over the Festive season.
I found my little flat and met my lovely host Paddy, who was staying in the apartment above with her family. They were so welcoming which lifted my spirits as it was new year's eve and they say the loneliest place is in a crowd. Took myself down to the local KwikSpar...really do small towns not value decent produce? lol! I then stopped for a lunch of mussels and white wine (yes it's a daily staple in December) at Flava restaurant. Super friendly service and wonderful food, supported by a Kaapse Klopse band which were playing along the street. I headed back to the flat for an afternoon nap, love holidays! I was then invited by my host, Paddy, to join her and her family for a bit of champers to kick off New Year's Eve. I met her lovely family while toasting champagne overlooking the lagoon and sea...beautiful! Her son is a lawyer in CT and his wife lectures chemical engineering at UCT...a sudden inadequacy overwhelms me as they ask what I do...'digital media' I say...'sales', they respond with 'wow sales I definitely don't have the skills for that'...suddenly I realise that they're right, it is a skill and I shouldn't be embarrassed in front of these overly-educated folk ⌗lessonlearnt. Thoroughly enjoyed my time with these lovely people. Sadly I had to run off to my dinner reservation at Flava...POrtuguese shower it had to be, but was sad to meet my new found friends! My dinner at Flava did not start wutg the same flair for service as my lunch had, but I had a bottle of red wine to keep me company. Not sure who my waiter was so I just ordered from whoever happened to pass by, which appeared to be a mistake as they lost my order. I was however extremely grateful to Liesl who jumped to my aid and appeared to be keeping the rest of the headless chickens on the floor in check. Love a woman who takes charge, yet still takes the time to encourage her colleagues...a wonder she wasn't the manager. A lesson that whatever you do in life, do it with charisma and heart! So Dinner for One (classic movie) is lonely get quietly fascinating, I haven't paid so much attention to the world around me in a while...something positive in that. Eventually I was fed, but without a doubt the highlight of my evening was experiencing the tenacity and vibrancy of Liesl...I aspire to be more like her, what a revelation. My dinner ended with a photo with the hard-working kitchen staff who did a stirling job even though they had been slaving for 6 days straight with about 3 hours sleep each night! I saw in the new year with the staff and owner's family which was an unexpected delight!
New year's day was a a write off due to the hangover I was nursing, however the 2nd turned out to be a much better start to the year. I awoke early and travelled through to Groot Brakrivier to join friends of my Gran for a lovely breakfast and then headed to Knysna. I spent the day on the gorgeous Thesen Island with my friend Di and her family, as well as the continuos stream of guests that pass through their doors. It was a gorgeous day and so we packed the cooler box and headed out with the boat for sundowners at the Knysna Heads, truly a beautiful part of the country.
A group went water skiing early the next morning, while the rest of us took the kayaks out for a trip around the canals, both relaxing and exhausting. We ate a hearty breakfast and relaxed in the sun, when a beautiful retriever swam up to the house with his owner, apparently she insists on joining him on every swim. This, however, was not the last I was to see of their neighbour, about 45min later he appeared asking for me...of course this intrigued everyone and they all filtered outside to see what was up. So there he was in his 1950's wooden boat that he had restored, and asked if I would like to join for a trip around the island. I did feel quite in the spotlight so I hopped on to the boat and off we ventured. It was like something out of a Humphrey Bogart film. My new found friend had travelled the world while working for Unilever, working in SA, Holland, Israel, and Prague. He ended up in Australia where he met the love of his life and followed her back to the UK. Not letting on too much his engagement didn't end in marriage and he returned to SA where he lives with his retriever in a gorgeous home on Thesen Island. An unexpected encounter but thoroughly enjoyable, this is what life is about, interacting with new and interesting people. Sadly my fantastic adventure was drawing to a close as I said my goodbyes and headed off to George airport. As I checked in I found out that my flight was delayed by 3 hours, definitely could have spent 3 hours in a more inspiring location. All I can say is that I had an unbelievable experience and the time alone was fantastic for my soul. Amazing places and people made this an unforgettable week and definitely a trip I will be expanding on in the future. Before I end off, I had decided to write down any songs that caught my attention while on my journey, definitely an interesting mix but hopefully will entertain you on your next roadtrip: - Offspring: Self esteem - Samuel Miller: Lost out here - Timbaland: Morning after dark - Jason Miraz: I won't give up - Taylor Swift: Style - Goldfish: Take back tomorrow - Pit Bull: Don't stop the party - Walk the Moon: Shut up and dance - MKTO: Bad girls - Elle King: Ex's & Oh's - Demi Lovato: Skyscraper - Indiana: Mess around - Afroki: Back to earth - Rihanna: Where have you been - Katy Perry: Who am I living for - Chris Isaak: Wicked game - Black: Wonderful life - Amy Winehouse: You know I'm no good - Ella Henderson: Ghost - Emeli Sande: Read all about it Pt2 - Prime Circle: Evidence - Bruno Mars: Locked out of heaven - Christina Perry: Human - Ed Sheeran: A Team - Echosmith: Bright Bye xox